13 Comments

"Cafes with summer gardens? Check"

And they are located in the old factory buildings (now fashionably refurbished)!

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I was so afraid this precious blog may be dead. Thank you for coming back!

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Jun 13·edited Jun 13

I am afraid that to call Tver 'glubinkoi' is an oversimplification. Russian word glubinka is a typical Russian/Slavic diminutive term, derived from the word depth (glubina). It refers to remote rural countryside and Russian socio-economic reality is more complicated, there are shades of grey between Moscow/Piter and villages with no running water, electricity and no asphalt road (canonical meaning of glubinka).

In glubinka citizen has limited impact on political reality, but in bigger and smaller cities there are still elected mayors. Until 2012 ca. 50% of city mayors in Russia were directly elected, and in the last years this percentage shrunk to less than 10%. From 90's Russians had political power and they were electing opposition candidates with Yevgeny Roizman from Yekaterinburg being most famous example (now behind the bars).

Putinists are gradually dismantling local democracy in Russia, but it was not - and hopefully still is not - lost and hopeless case, as presented in the article. Someday Putinist state will collapse and it may open again window of opportunity for local leaders.

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But I'm taking it straight from native speakers!

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Jun 13·edited Jun 13

I don't doubt it, but in the quoted fragment Saponkov mentions Tver oblast', rather then Tver city itself. Maybe city from his vivid descprition is not Tver (400K citizens), but rather Torzhok, Vyshny Volochyok (47K) or Kranomaisky (5K)? Actually, the last one is the only one on the Nikolayevska Railway that fits description: it is on the lake (yes, with reed), and with picturesque ruined factory Krasny Mai.

If you check Russian websites, there is no consensus if Tver may bear the honor to be called glubinka. Some pompous Moscovites naturally call it this way, but more humble Russians do not. Interestingly, there is common phrase 'tverska glubinka' meaning simply Tver oblast' hinterland. If Tver itself is a glubinka, than glubinka glubinki is concievable, yet shaky construction (I would not go this way). Just saying, salute!

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I had a quick look at Google Maps street view of Tver. It looks like Żyrardów in the 90s. Bad enough for my standards.

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Comparing less developed areas of Russia and Western Europe is futile. Every country with vast territory have huge contradictions between metropolitan center and remote areas. It is the same in India, Indonesia or Brazil. EU countries are simply small. The thing is that neither Indonesia, neither India nor Brazil is trying to destroy neighboring countries.

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It's not a matter of distance. Tver and Novgorod are fairly close to Moscow and Petersburg, that's how the discussion started. Also, Saponkov writes that the bad things ("Cargo 200 set decorations") are within one hour drive from Moscow.

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Agreed it is not matter of distance, but it doesn’t change a thing: same distance from capitals of India, Indonesia or Brazil you will find the same kind of areas..

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Bumfuck, Arizona also looks pretty bad :)

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The glubinka/metropoly difference is interesting, because -I'm guessing- Russians may think the same way about relations between countries. There has to a "metropolis" (like Russia or USA) that sucks resources out of glubinka nations (like Ukraine or western Europe), so why do these weird eastern Europeans want to move their glubinka to the US glubinka? And many westerners buy into the same thinking, unfortunately.

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Simply the Russia is a colony of Moscow and St Petersburg. Not only teritories that were conquered from other nations that now are part of Russia (like entire Siberia), but also the Russia proper. That explains a lot.

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